This Soho bistro was a pioneer when it opened in the mid-seventies, a time when area artists were still starving and a smoking ban was a mere glint in Mayor Bloomberg's eye. Still run by the Alsatian Raoul brothers and their families, the well-kept bohemian atmosphere remains, even with a better-fed, tobacco-free clientele. An eclectic bunch of wine-weathered locals, stylish European tourists and young, model types make up the late-night bar crowd, while the three dining rooms suit all moods, from the bright, covered garden behind the kitchen, to the clandestine loft where a fortune teller holds court, to the buzzy main dining room.