The name of this Italian eatery, which specializes in thin-crust, brick-oven pizza, means “the ace,” not “the ass.” Owner Robert Benevenga burns oak and cherry logs to give his crisp pies a smoky flavor, best sampled in the excellent margherita variety—though the rosemary-potato version ain’t bad either. The decor is both minimalist and warm—the hulking brick oven figures prominently, as do picture windows and unvarnished wooden banquettes. If you desire more variety, L’Asso offers plates of toothsome bresaola, as well as rosemary chicken.