Flaming Kitchen
97 Bowery
Flaming Kitchen is the first restaurant in Chinatown to pour on a serious quantity of ma-la peppercorns. In the section titled Cold Dishes, the ox tongue and tripe with chili sauce ($8.95) constitutes a sort of gateway drug to Sichuan cuisine, slicked with red oil and flecked with a modest quantity of peppercorns. The bumpy stomach tripe is mild enough that it might make an organ eater out of you. Better yet are the diced rabbit with peanuts (watch out for bones!) and the beef tendon — not the usual wobbly wads of connective tissue, but firmer flesh sliced thin for easy chewability.